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The Nung of Ba Be

Among the many ethnic minorities that shape the cultural richness of Vietnam, the Nung hold a special place. This community of over a million people, mainly located in the northeast of the country, has managed to preserve a remarkable ancestral heritage, especially within the Ba Be National Park.
 
new-year-eve The shaman and the ceremony group go to perform a star offering ceremony to ward off bad luck - Photo:LangVanHoaVietnam

Origin and history

Originally from the Tai populations living in Guangxi, China, the Nung began migrating to Vietnam two to three centuries ago, often fleeing political and social unrest in their home country.

During the French colonial period (1947–1954), an "Autonomous Nung Territory" was created in the provinces of Quảng Ninh and Lạng Sơn. This territory aimed to gain the support of ethnic minorities against the Việt Minh. However, after 1954, this territory was dissolved, leading over 50,000 Nung people to migrate to southern Vietnam - mainly around Saigon and in the provinces of Dong Nai, Lam Dong, and Dak Lak - or abroad.

The history of the Nung is thus marked by these movements, as well as by a constant struggle to preserve their autonomy and cultural identity.

Habitat and architecture

Today, the Nung are divided into many subgroups, such as the Nung Xuong, Nung Giang, or Nung Chao, each with its own traditions and characteristics. They mainly live in hamlets of 30 to 70 households, where their traditional stilt or rammed earth houses (called "trinh tuong") harmonize with the surrounding wet rice fields and orchards.

These houses, topped with yin-yang tiles forming an emblematic pattern, are designed to accommodate daily life, storage, and animals. The spacious interior is harmoniously divided into two parts: the front section, reserved for men and the ancestral altar, and the back section, dedicated to women and the kitchen.
 
nung-woman Nung Woman in traditional attire - Photo : Khieu Minh

Language, writing, and religion

The Nung language, belonging to the Tai-Kadai family (more specifically the Tay-Thai subgroup), is closely related to that of their ethnic neighbors, the Tày and Zhuang. Although Vietnamese is widely used, the Nung continue to communicate in their mother tongue, especially during market exchanges or traditional celebrations.
In the past, the Nung transcribed their language using Sawndip, an ancient writing system derived from Chinese characters. However, this practice has become rare over time. Nowadays, ritual texts are often annotated in Vietnamese characters, facilitating their reading.

Nung religion is a blend of animism, Buddhism, and Confucianism. They worship nature spirits (phi), figures like Quan Âm (Guanyin), as well as their ancestors, whose cult holds a central place in their practices. Their festivals and ceremonies, such as Long Tong (field festival) or Thanh Minh (grave preparation), are often accompanied by traditional artistic performances, like Then, a blend of music and spirituality.

Culture and traditions

Nung culture is rich in oral and artistic traditions. Their songs, accompanied by instruments like bamboo flutes, drums, and gongs, punctuate daily life, festivals, and ceremonies. Tales and legends, recited during gatherings, perpetuate the history, values, and beliefs of the people. Theatre and dance, often linked to religious rituals, stand out for their use of masks and colorful costumes.
In terms of clothing, the Nung wear simple garments, dyed with indigo and adorned with embroidery or beads. Women wear square scarves folded into triangles, while men wear Mandarin-collared button-up shirts.

In terms of cuisine, rice is the staple food, accompanied by specific dishes during festivals, such as Tết. Colored sticky rice is a delight, especially the black and ant egg varieties, essential for celebrations. In late January, wormwood cakes are a seasonal delicacy. Roasted pig stuffed with "mac mat" leaves, a local spice close to pepper, is reserved for special occasions.

Finally, let us acknowledge the Nung's excellence in weaving, indigo dyeing, basketry, and silverware production. These skills, passed down through generations, are symbols of their identity.
 
traditional-dishes Traditional dishes for the Thanh Minh Festival - Internet

Economy

Historically, the Nung were primarily farmers, practicing slash-and-burn agriculture and terrace farming. They still cultivate rice, vegetables, fruits, and spices, while also raising livestock to meet their needs.

Preserved heritage

Today, the Nung of Ba Be National Park embody the cultural richness of Vietnam. Their history, traditions, and way of life, in harmony with nature, offer visitors a unique immersive experience. This preserved heritage underscores the importance of cultural diversity and the need to protect our common heritage.
Among the many ethnic minorities that shape the cultural richness of Vietnam, the Nung hold a special place. This community of over a million people, mainly located in the northeast of the country, has managed to preserve a remarkable ancestral heritage, especially within the Ba Be National Park.
 
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